‘Girls want to be boys where the boys want to be girls’

Roos van Koster puts her gentlemen in a very appropriate collection for the ‘Zeitgeist’ we are living in right now. Gender bending, masculinity, where is the real man in fashion at this moment? Van Koster isn’t afraid and breaks through all the silhouettes and proportions we are used to. This results in an amazing tension and super confident, strong man. A new generation? Who knows. They definitely came as a pleasant surprise to me. I’m proud to present the new SS 2011 collection of Heren van Koster: ‘VENTER’.

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”Look for the woman in the dress. If there is no woman, there is no dress.” Coco Chanel

Ever since Coco Chanel presented her Little Black Dress in the American Vogue in1926 it never left a women’s closet again. It became a fashion classic and an absolute must have. No longer the uniform of mourning widows, the ‘Petite Robe Noire’ became the summit of chic, accessible for every women, appropriate for every occasion. The one from Chanel was an extreme minimalistic statement of couture quality, ment to go along for years and years, now and then transformed by jewelry and accessory.

Nowadays, the closet of the women involves a much bigger spectrum of personalities and moods. ‘Every petite robe noire should be a sublimation of such moment’. According to designer Indra Welman. ‘Most collections tell a whole story by one or two favorite designs. For me, the little black dress, is the ultimate piece of clothing that explains my deepest passion for fashion.’

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It’s a warm and starry summer nights sky: not completely dark, but more deep cobalt blue. I enter the field where the show is to be held. I must note that a field is not the best choice for a show during fashion week, as 98% of all women are wearing heels. Mine sink deep into the moist earth with every footstep I take. I stumble along to a bunch of people standing in a large circle. It’s remarkably silent, I think, amazed by the little noise that’s coming from this amount of people. When I get closer to the crowd, however, I can distinguish the silhouette of big headphones. Aha! That’s why no one’s talking. They’re listening to music; it’s a silent disco…

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Issey Miyake’s pleats please must’ve been of inspiration to Daryl this season (Funny note: mum on the phone: “Is it Saturday you’re going to Waryl van Douw?”), as he both pleated away with his sporty tee’s and bottoms as with classy evening gowns. My favourite: the cobalt blue –  pleated – gown, with loose and low back.

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Being the proud AMFI student that I am, I was very anxious seeing what my fellow students designed for our own label, Individuals. I must say, I definitely liked some things, but wasn’t blown away by the entire collection.

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Unpredictable, edgy, off Women. That was the starting point for the young designer Nicolaas.

An upbeat city music was playing and I could feel the energy. Girls with slick hair walking straight to the beat. No fear, they are the world.  A hot mess said Nicolaas, but to me they we’re very clean, strong shapes signed the collection. Something caught my eyes right away: the accessories. There were this amazing big, metal bracelets and necklaces in architectural shapes. A perfect contrast with the soft materials of the clothing. The statement bracelets are especially designed by Mammoet Gerritsen. The big futuristic sunglasses are also a special design. Those are from product designer Aart van Asseldonk. The shades really give you the ‘city energy’ and the distance of the edgy women, kind of like your in a futuristic 3D visual movie. The colors are bright and in particular artificial. We see a lot of black, white and red, and also some neon colors. The neon is to me, ‘a little  too late’. Materials and shapes find their origin as well in street culture, as in the festive nightlife and the classical work being.
This new women leaves a trail of destruction and admiration after a long dark night…

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